I haven't been able to update this whilst I've been away but I will do so now, as much for myself as to keep everyone updated.
From where I left off, we did a half day tour of Cusco. Here we visited the big Inca temple in the historical centre of town which has been coined 'The Vatican of the Incas'. It was a big gold and stone structure which is now half covered by a Spanish colonial church. We then went to the top of one of the hills surrounding the city and saw Saqsaywaman which is a big Inca structure which looks out over the city which is very impressive. Our leader Carlos was brilliant, he told us all about each place and explained everything for us so we really got a good understanding by the end of it.
After our tour we went to an Alpaca factory shop where we learnt to tell the difference in quality between the different types of wool. Vicuña wool is so soft and gorgeous, but they are a protected species. Phyllis bought an incredible alpaca fur coat and Chris haggled his way through for an interesting 'Peruvian' jumper. After that we spent some time getting lost and wandering around some markets in town.
The next day we had an early start 5am (again) and I was very ill. We took the train from Cusco through the mountains to Aguas Calientes which is the town below Machu Picchu. When we got there we dumped our stuff at the hotel and got on a bus up the mountain. The buses are insane, they fly up this wiggly road full of switchbacks up the hill very close to the cliff on a dusty road. By the time we reached the top we were ready to kiss the ground. As we came through the gates and up along the tracks Machu Picchu catches you by surprise, you don't see it until you're right on top of it. When you do see it though it takes your breath away, as you come round the first corner it's the proper postcard style photo. Its incredible, with Huanapicchu mountain behind framing it and surrounded by jungle covered mountains. It was lovely and sunny that day and Carlos gave us a very detailed explanation of the place. The sun temple in the middle is quite spectacular as they have built it such that the sunrise comes through the windows perfectly at both the summer and the winter solstice. That day was also Eddi's birthday so we celebrated in style with a Panpipe rendition of Happy Birthday, cake and pisco sours. Pisco sour itself is lovely but the way they serve it as a cocktail is with whisked raw egg white on top served with cinnamon sprinkles, it's gross!
The next day we had an insanely early start (at which point I still had travellers sickness) we woke up at 4am! The 'Young Ones' (Eddi, Carlos, Chris, Melissa, Richard and myself) We then had to get in the bus queue by 4:30, leaving half the group to get bus tickets and the others to get the park tickets. To be able to climb Huanapicchu you have to be in the first 400 people in, and to be able to do the early walk you have to be in the first 200. By about 6am we were at the park and managed to get our stamp to allow us in and then headed over to the mountain, where we again had to queue and sign in and out. The climb up was amazing though, massive, rickety stone steps up the side of the mountain as the sun rose over the city of Machu Picchu. The views from the top are breathtaking, you get a panoramic view of the Andean mountains. We then did a very dodgy steep walk back down the steps on the side of the mountain and back to Machu Picchu. After that we split up and Eddi and I walked up the baking hot paved path up to the sungate. From there, there is another amazing view and you can see the path which is where the Inca Trail finishes. You could see the amazing porters running up the hill with massive packs on their shoulders, carrying all the weight for the walkers behind. We also walked to see the Inca bridge, which was slightly less dramatic, but we then walked back to the gate, got on the bus down the hill and then onto the train back to Cusco.
Our final day in Cusco we decided to do a day tour of the Sacred Valley. A small group of us got on the bus and Carlos took us round various different ruins along the valley. The weather was lovely and we learnt a lot, we also took some fun photos with Eddi and a water bottle.
The next morning we got up early again and drove towards Puno, we went past beautiful snow capped mountains and took photos of a very fuzzy llama which spat at Chris. When we got to the coast we said goodbye to our drivers, Willy and Darwin and took a little boat across Lake Titikaka. The view on the lake is amazing, the sunset is beautiful. We arrived on Amantani island and were greeted by the locals in Quechuan. After a little wander around the island we were split up and showed to our families. Myself and the boys stayed with Maria in her home, she made us lovely vegetable soup and peppermint (Munya) tea. In the evening we were given local dress, the guys put on big alpaca ponchos and hats and I was given a big black headdress, thick skirt and colourful skirt and belt. We joined everyone at the local house and started a bonfire and the local people led us in a dance around the fire to some local music. We had no electricity or running water on the island. The toilet gets flushed once a day with a bucket and we had candles in the bedroom. Because there was no electricity there was no light pollution which meant we could see the stars across the entire sky, it was beautiful. It was cold on the island at the high altitude and we wore lots of layers and had many alpaca blankets.
We were rudely awoken by a cockerel the next morning at 5 something in the morning. After breakfast of yummy pancakes we got on the boat and headed towards Puno. On the way we stopped at the Uros islands, the floating reed islands on the lake. They spread out with a sort of river in the middle, all along the edges of the islands are amazing reed boats and sculptures. We were showed how the islands were made from reeds and soil and told us how they built things. We had lunch on the island, we were given fresh trout from the trout farms in built in the islands and more munya tea. The islands were really magical, the way they are self sustaining and manage to make everything from the reeds. After lunch we got the boat to Puno shores and took a bus to the hotel.
The next day we headed to Chivay. In the evening we went to the hot springs. When we got there the sun was going down and it was starting to get chilly, there were lots of people there and we were starting to think it wasn't a good idea. We speedily got undressed and ran to the pools, 38 degrees C it was lovely. As soon as the sun went down the pool cleared out and we had it to ourselves. The stars came out and we could see the southern cross. We were brought nice cold beers in the pool with the hot water it was lovely and I was given a lovely hand massage by Eddi.
After our lovely time at the hot spa we had another (!) early morning and got up at 5am. We drove, in the cold into Colca Canyon with a good local guide to the Condor viewing point. We spent the first hour or so standing there whingeing about being cold and not seeing anything. Then all of a sudden the condors came, normally they just pass through the canyon but there were about 6 of them and they stayed for an hour, putting on a show for us. They are around 3m wide in wing span and they flew so close, they kept going back and forth and circling over the tops of our heads. I took an obscene amount of photos as they were absolutely breathtaking. After the condors we went around the local market and had some lunch before heading on to Arequipa.
In Arequipa we went to the Saint Catalina Monastery and looked around that with a local guide which is pretty and you can see the El Misti volcano from the top. Afterwards when we had some free time we had a wander around the market stalls and went to see the ice princess museum. This is where Juanita is, she was a frozen girl corpse who was sacrificed to the mountain Gods by the Incas. She was starved, dehydrated, drugged and walked to the top of the mountain in Arequipa, all the way from Cusco; only to be hit on the head in a ceremony where she was sacrificed to appease the volcano. That afternoon we had our 'Last Supper' together which involved lots of toasts and speeches which was good fun.
That evening we flew to Lima and then had one more night in the start hotel. The last day in Lima we managed to have a lie in, we then went on a city tour and saw the old and new parts of the city and went round the gold museum. The museum was a private collection of Inca and pre-Incan gold and pottery which was really interesting. We then had some time to ourselves as a group and had lunch together, however without the Kiwi's or Chris who had already flown out. That night I joined the group after a teary goodbye to Eddi and Carlos and we headed to the airport.
2 flights later and I arrived in Heathrow where I was met by Mum and Dad with breakfast muffins! Home :)
Monday, 16 August 2010
Wednesday, 4 August 2010
Andes
Taken a long time to update this as I havent been able to get to the internet.
After the first night in Lima we had breakfast at 5am and left the hotel at 6 which was very cold. We all piled onto the coach/minibus and Carlos our leader introduced everyone. The guy sat behind me started talking to me and it turns out he's a year older and is from Exmouth which is a massive coincidence considering not even everyone on the trip is English.
The drive out of Lima as the sun came up was amazing. As you leave the main city there are hundreds of little shanty towns which make Rio's favelas look like palaces. The landscape outside Lima is different also...it is so dry and barren, it is like desert almost with only the occasional cactus or shrub growing.
The first day we drove along the coast where we took a speed boat from the bay out to the ballestras islands which are covered in all sorts of sea birds, and poop! There were penguins, pelicans, cormorants, gulls, sealions and many others all completely covering the rocks. We also saw a preincan design which is drawn into the cliff. The land round there is very dry and barren, it only rains a couple of times a year so it has stayed intact. After the boat journey we went to a restaurant and had local fish which was gorgeous. After lunch we drove towards Ica and stopped along the way at a traditional winery. Our very enthusiastic guide showed us round and explained the traditional ways of making Pisco (the national drink). After the tour we all tried bits of the different types, of which some are lovely and others like paintstripper. After that we drove to Ica and found our hotel which was lovely again and braved a very cold swim in the pool.
The next morning we got up early again and into the mood. We went to the museum in Ica. Here we saw lots of old Barracus (sp?) and Nazca artefacts. They also have fully preserved humans which are thousands of years old that got dried out in the sand and the skin and hair is still all intact and in one even the eyes.
After the museum we drove to the oasis and us 4younger ones opted to do sandboarding. We were strapped into buggies then taken up into the dunes. It was like a rollercoaster the dunes are massive and our driver sped and skidded up and down the slopes whilst we held on for dear life. The dunes are huge.... Everything here is on such a vast scale. The view from the top of the dunes is incredible they just go to the horizon. Then we got onto the boards and we opted to do bodyboarding style not standing up as apparently it's more fun and then flew down the slopes. They go so fast the first bit is gentle then you reach the edge and its like a death slide. It's so much fun but you do get sand everywhere! After that we took another very long drive towards Nazca along the big dry plateau thats between the mountains. When we got there I was one of the stupid people who took the over flight over the Nazca lines in a tiny little 6seater propeller plane. The lines themselves are huge and only 2cm deep into the ground but have still survived all this time. We then headed to our hotel and had an early night before the big assent the next day.
After another early breakfast we headed onto the coach for a whole day of driving. We climbed up out of the plateau where Nazca is up towards Abancay. The mountains are vast and just breathtaking. We watched the scenery change from desert to brush, then up to the high mountains and green valleys. The road was very windy, at our highest point we reached 4500+ metres above sea level. Some people got affected by the altitude, the air is much thinner and when you walk at first your legs burn as they are having to respire anaerobicly which produces lots of lactic acid. On the way we saw Vicoona (sp?) which look like skinny llamas, alpacas, llamas, condors - which are huge and flamingos. We stayed over night near Abancay and celebrated Carlos' birthday with Pisco sours.
Yesterday we had another long drive and along the way as we came up through the valleys we could see the mountains ontop covered in glaciers. It is stunning scenery around here. Along the way we stopped at some Incan ruins sites. The quality of the brickwork and architecture exeeds ours by far. We pass through lots of little towns on the way which all look half built. Mostly made of mud and tin and other scrap. The people look so Andean as well, small ladies with big hats and colourful wool dresses. And everywhere - like Brazil - has millions of stray dogs. Another thing they have are proper Richard Scarymobiles, converted motorbike, rickshaw threewheeled cars. We came to Cusco last night and went out for dinner. Some had Alpaca and I tried a bit, it was nice i think, apparently quite like venison. There's a chance to try guinea pig tonight. Half day tour of Cusco happening this morning then Macchu Pichu tomorrow.
After the first night in Lima we had breakfast at 5am and left the hotel at 6 which was very cold. We all piled onto the coach/minibus and Carlos our leader introduced everyone. The guy sat behind me started talking to me and it turns out he's a year older and is from Exmouth which is a massive coincidence considering not even everyone on the trip is English.
The drive out of Lima as the sun came up was amazing. As you leave the main city there are hundreds of little shanty towns which make Rio's favelas look like palaces. The landscape outside Lima is different also...it is so dry and barren, it is like desert almost with only the occasional cactus or shrub growing.
The first day we drove along the coast where we took a speed boat from the bay out to the ballestras islands which are covered in all sorts of sea birds, and poop! There were penguins, pelicans, cormorants, gulls, sealions and many others all completely covering the rocks. We also saw a preincan design which is drawn into the cliff. The land round there is very dry and barren, it only rains a couple of times a year so it has stayed intact. After the boat journey we went to a restaurant and had local fish which was gorgeous. After lunch we drove towards Ica and stopped along the way at a traditional winery. Our very enthusiastic guide showed us round and explained the traditional ways of making Pisco (the national drink). After the tour we all tried bits of the different types, of which some are lovely and others like paintstripper. After that we drove to Ica and found our hotel which was lovely again and braved a very cold swim in the pool.
The next morning we got up early again and into the mood. We went to the museum in Ica. Here we saw lots of old Barracus (sp?) and Nazca artefacts. They also have fully preserved humans which are thousands of years old that got dried out in the sand and the skin and hair is still all intact and in one even the eyes.
After the museum we drove to the oasis and us 4younger ones opted to do sandboarding. We were strapped into buggies then taken up into the dunes. It was like a rollercoaster the dunes are massive and our driver sped and skidded up and down the slopes whilst we held on for dear life. The dunes are huge.... Everything here is on such a vast scale. The view from the top of the dunes is incredible they just go to the horizon. Then we got onto the boards and we opted to do bodyboarding style not standing up as apparently it's more fun and then flew down the slopes. They go so fast the first bit is gentle then you reach the edge and its like a death slide. It's so much fun but you do get sand everywhere! After that we took another very long drive towards Nazca along the big dry plateau thats between the mountains. When we got there I was one of the stupid people who took the over flight over the Nazca lines in a tiny little 6seater propeller plane. The lines themselves are huge and only 2cm deep into the ground but have still survived all this time. We then headed to our hotel and had an early night before the big assent the next day.
After another early breakfast we headed onto the coach for a whole day of driving. We climbed up out of the plateau where Nazca is up towards Abancay. The mountains are vast and just breathtaking. We watched the scenery change from desert to brush, then up to the high mountains and green valleys. The road was very windy, at our highest point we reached 4500+ metres above sea level. Some people got affected by the altitude, the air is much thinner and when you walk at first your legs burn as they are having to respire anaerobicly which produces lots of lactic acid. On the way we saw Vicoona (sp?) which look like skinny llamas, alpacas, llamas, condors - which are huge and flamingos. We stayed over night near Abancay and celebrated Carlos' birthday with Pisco sours.
Yesterday we had another long drive and along the way as we came up through the valleys we could see the mountains ontop covered in glaciers. It is stunning scenery around here. Along the way we stopped at some Incan ruins sites. The quality of the brickwork and architecture exeeds ours by far. We pass through lots of little towns on the way which all look half built. Mostly made of mud and tin and other scrap. The people look so Andean as well, small ladies with big hats and colourful wool dresses. And everywhere - like Brazil - has millions of stray dogs. Another thing they have are proper Richard Scarymobiles, converted motorbike, rickshaw threewheeled cars. We came to Cusco last night and went out for dinner. Some had Alpaca and I tried a bit, it was nice i think, apparently quite like venison. There's a chance to try guinea pig tonight. Half day tour of Cusco happening this morning then Macchu Pichu tomorrow.
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